1. Përmet: Location and Accessibility
2. A Brief Stroll Through the City
3. The Thermal Springs of Benja
4. Lengarica Canyon
5. Strëmbec Lake
6. Sopotit Waterfall
7. Vjosa Valley
8. Traditional Villages
9. The City of Tepelena and Its Surroundings
10. The City of Gjirokastër
11. Where To Sleep in Përmet
12. The Impressions of Our Young Explorers

Përmet: Location and Accessibility

This charming town is renowned for its unique landscape, featuring mountains blanketed in lush forests, breathtaking waterfalls, and rejuvenating thermal springs. Steeped in history and boasting an authentic culinary heritage, Përmet promises an unforgettable experience for those seeking to discover Albania’s genuine allure.

This moderately sized city, with a population of approximately 10,000 residents, is situated in the southern region of Albania, just 35 kilometers away from the Greek border. It can be conveniently visited by taking a slight detour while en route to the Albanian Riviera. Additionally, it makes for an excellent day trip from popular destinations such as Ksamil, located 100 kilometers away from this renowned resort town.

The road connections to the city are very good from both directions. The route from the Greek border crossing is newly asphalted, and the one from Ksamil is also very good. There are all kinds of roads in the city, asphalted, tiled or gravel, depending on the area. But in the summer of 2023 certain areas were still undergoing construction work, which can be seen as a positive sign of ongoing improvements. 🙂

A Brief Stroll Through the City

Often referred to as the “City of Roses,” Përmet boasts several places worth exploring if you find yourself in the area.

First and foremost, perhaps the most renowned attraction in the city is the “Stone of the City,” known as “Guri i Qytetit.” It’s a 42-meter-high rock formation that can be ascended via precisely 101 steps (as counted by the kids😁). At its summit, there used to be an ancient fortress, from which the local leader, Premt, held off the Ottoman invasion for as long as he could before ultimately leaping into the waters of the Vjosa River, along with his daughter, to avoid capture. In honor of this martyr, the city was named Përmet.

The view from the top is truly stunning, encompassing the turquoise waters of the Vjosa River, the cityscape, the promenade, and the park along the Vjosa’s banks, as well as the encircling mountains.

In the city center, you’ll find a charming square, a park with a playground and walking areas, a fountain surrounded by roses, and several cobblestone streets that wind through stone houses and lead to two stone churches, St. Nicholas and St. Paraskeva.

The Thermal Springs of Benja

Located just 13 kilometers from Përmet, you’ll find perhaps the most well-known and visited destination in the region – the thermal springs of Benja. Here, right at the edge of a magnificent canyon, healing waters, sought by many, surface. There are multiple sulfur springs around which various-sized pools have been constructed. The largest pool is situated at the canyon’s entrance, with a diameter of approximately 15 meters and a depth of 1.5 meters.

The water temperature typically ranges between 22-28 degrees Celsius, making it perfect for cooling off on a hot summer day. 😊 However, it does contain a significant amount of sulfur, so it’s advisable to take baths in intervals of no longer than 20-25 minutes.

Between your bathing sessions, you can admire the Kadiut Bridge, a stone bridge at the entrance to the canyon. You can also explore the caves at the base of the cliffs, where Neolithic and Eneolithic relics have been discovered, or take a hike through…

Lengarica Canyon

One of the longest canyons in Albania, Lengarica leaves a lasting impression with its untamed beauty spanning all of its 4.5 kilometers. It begins at the thermal springs and gradually narrows and deepens until it reaches its climax, where you can almost touch both walls with your hands. The narrowest section is the most spectacular, with vertical walls soaring around you to a height of approximately 150 meters, making the sky vanish entirely. You’ll feel incredibly small in comparison to the colossal natural giants surrounding you.

Another must-see in the canyon is the pair of waterfalls located very close to each other. Don’t worry, you won’t have to climb above them; the waterfalls are situated in two adjacent valleys that flow into the Lengarica River. If you found the journey to the waterfalls spectacular, know that the truly splendid and adventurous part begins upstream from the waterfalls. The water deepens, there are places where Mihai (7 years old) couldn’t touch the bottom, and for us adults, the water came up to our chests. But we had a ton of fun as we marveled at the surroundings left and right. I can say it was one of the most impressive places in Albania. If you enjoy adventure, you must come here! 😁

Please be mindful not to enter the canyon if rain is forecasted! In the upper part, there’s a dam that opens during heavy rainfall, causing a significant rise in water levels within the canyon.

Strëmbec Lake

There’s a small yet incredibly beautiful lake nearby, just a stone’s throw away from the road but cleverly concealed by the hill in front of it (location here). It’s surrounded by a pine forest, perfect for a relaxing stroll after your adventures in the canyon. The reason I wanted to emphasize the lake is that from here, you’ll be treated to a magnificent view of the Nemërçka Mountains and the peak of Maja e Papingut (2482 m), the highest peak in southern Albania.

In this massif, somewhat across from the lake, over the Vjosa Valley, you’ll find…

Sopotit Waterfall

The day spent in the mountains, following the trail to the waterfall, was an experience in itself. We happen to love mountains, but I believe the scenery along this trail would impress anyone. The trail starts from the village of Strëmbec, accessible via a narrow gravel road, which, luckily, isn’t very crowded. The road isn’t too bad, but I would recommend a vehicle with decent ground clearance for safety. There’s a parking area in the meadow in front of a house in the village. This is also where you’ll find the sign pointing towards the waterfall, with a mentioned time of 1.5 hours. While the trail isn’t marked, the path is well-trodden and clearly visible. Essentially, you’ll be following the course of the water. Shortly after entering the trail, you’ll come across a former aqueduct built by the villagers to supply water to the village. It was likely a monumental effort, with a handful of people digging into the earth and rock, damming and concreting until they reached the waterfall.

The waterfall has three cascades that add up to a height of 20 meters. But we didn’t stop there. With adventurous kids in tow, we couldn’t resist going higher, up to the glacial cirque above the waterfall. The trail ascends to the left of the waterfall; it’s steep, with slippery scree, but our little explorers have experience in the high mountains, so they handled it superbly. And at the top, it felt like we had reached paradise. A massive amphitheater unfolded before us, with vertical walls and peaks shrouded in clouds. It was a sight to behold! And the tranquility… You couldn’t help but be awestruck by such a landscape.

Vjosa Valley

You’ve probably heard of the Vjosa River. If not, let me tell you that it’s the most significant river in Albania, originating in Greece, and it’s the first river in Europe to be declared a national park. Its natural value is unquestionable, but I want to share its touristic aspect with you. In the Përmet Mountains, it forms a gorge that’s worth admiring, even if only from the road. However, if you’re like us, you’ll stop here and there, look for a rock to climb, and take heaps of photos. If that’s not enough for you, you might want to try rafting. For that, I recommend the Albania Rafting Group, a team of true professionals. We went rafting on the Osumi River with them, and it was an absolute wild adventure! 😄

Albanian Traditional Villages

No, not the villages along the road that you pass by in your car. I’m talking about those perched high up in the hills, where you can barely reach by road, and the three people who still live there welcome you with open arms, even though they don’t understand a word you’re saying.

We visited Malëshovë and Limar, nestled in the Trebeshinë-Dhëmbel-Nemërçkë mountain range, as well as Benjë–Novoselë, perched above the Lengarica canyon. We enjoyed them all; it felt like we had stepped back in time. Houses entirely constructed from stone, a few sheep, and some birds greeted us high up in the mountains. In Benjë–Novoselë, we met a retired teacher who welcomed us into his courtyard and offered us caramelized figs, an absolute delight! Everywhere else, there’s an overwhelming sense of tranquility, and it’s as if time has stood still.

I recommend visiting these villages if you want to experience the true essence of old Albania. However, it’s essential to have a 4×4 vehicle with high clearance, as otherwise, you might end up staying longer than you initially planned due to the challenging terrain.

The City of Tepelena and Its Surroundings

Located 42 kilometers from Përmet, Tepelena is an equally charming town with a breathtaking view of the Vjosa River. You can enjoy a beautiful perspective of the valley from Ali Pasha’s castle in the town. However, for a broader view, head to the Martyrs’ Cemetery. From there, the angle opens up, revealing the entire town, with the Vjosa River winding its way alongside it.

A little further from the castle, you can visit Ali Pasha’s aqueduct, constructed to supply water to the castle. While it may not date back to Roman times, it is still quite spectacular. Moreover, if you cross to the other side and follow the trail for a bit, you’ll come across tunnels similar to those we found in Banat region in Romania, hand-carved by people in the rock to facilitate access from the upper villages to the valley below.

Further up the road, you can reach Ujevara e Peshturës, a beautiful waterfall with a natural bridge. You’ll need to leave your car by the road, near a farm. From there, a trail descends through a steep canyon. While it’s a bit challenging, it’s manageable if you have basic hiking abilities. The waterfall has multiple tiers, and the trail takes you to its middle, from where you can see two tiers above and one below. You can also reach the base of the waterfall, but we decided it was safer not to risk it with the children.

The City of Gjirokastër

Well, this is a city you definitely don’t want to miss, believe me. It’s arguably the most beautiful traditional city in Albania, and it’s no wonder it’s included in UNESCO’s list. The Ottoman-style houses clustered on the hillside and the fortress that dominates the summit offer sweeping views of the entire city and the surrounding area. The 62 kilometers from Përmet are well worth it. We’ve actually made the trip twice because we happened to catch the National Folklore Festival in Gjirokastër (more photos here), which is something we don’t often have the chance to witness.

Here, we visited, of course, the fortress, because Mom and Alex are big castle enthusiasts, and the Zekate House, a traditional Ottoman kula converted into a museum. This is in addition to strolls through the bazaar both day and night. We even wrote a separate article about the city here.

Where To Sleep in Përmet

With so many great places to see around here, you’ll need suitable accommodation, right? Well, you can find it at Apartament Clara. The apartment is located a 3-minute walk from the center, on the ground floor of a not-so-fancy building. But as they say, don’t judge a book by its cover. 😉

The apartment is brand new, freshly renovated, and opened to tourists in the spring of 2023. It has a spacious bedroom with a double bed, a wardrobe, a dresser, and a television. We slept like babies; the mattress is very comfortable, and the blinds kept the room dark, so the sun didn’t wake us up at 6 a.m.

In the living room, there’s a pull-out sofa, so two adults and 2-3 children can comfortably sleep in the apartment. There’s also a television, a coffee table, and a refrigerator. The open-space kitchen is equipped with absolutely everything we needed: an induction stove, plates, glasses, cutlery, pots and pans, a water kettle, a coffee maker, sugar, salt, paper towels, dishwashing detergent… you name it.

The dining area is also in the living room, tucked into a nook near the entrance. I found its placement quite clever, ensuring it doesn’t obstruct either the entrance or clutter the living room. It’s spacious enough for 4 people; we had plenty of room. I must also mention that Apartament Clara is equipped with a washing machine, which is very handy when you’re on vacation with children, and two air conditioning units to ensure your comfort. There’s even a parking space right in front of the window for those arriving by car.

The apartment’s owner, Marsida, is of Albanian origin but currently resides in Romania. She speaks a spotless English, so the language barrier won’t be an issue. In Përmet, there’s a lady who takes care of the apartment and hands over the keys to guests. She only speaks Albanian, but we didn’t need to communicate with her at all. Everything we needed to discuss, we did directly with Marsida over the internet because the Wi-Fi in the apartment works perfectly. So, if you want to make a reservation, you can contact her directly with complete confidence.

The Impressions of Our Young Explorers

Of course, we care about the opinions of the children, as we want to balance their wishes with ours as much as possible. So, let me tell you what they had to say about the week spent in Përmet.

Mihai (7 years old) says: “I really liked the two waterfalls. We went into the waterfalls and had a bath in them. I liked the mud in the canyon. I liked our accommodation because it had a teapot and a little box for bread, and I played with them. I remember at the little pools, we got invaded by lots of mosquitoes (I accidentally swallowed two of them), so we jumped quickly into the water, and the water was very warm. It was fun!” 😄

Alex (11 years old) says: “I liked the canyon, the narrowest part of the canyon, and the waterfall where I had a quick swim while Dad stayed in longer. And the pools at Benja. Oh, and the aqueduct! How could I forget about it? And the Sopotit waterfall – I liked that we hiked into that big basin. But what I liked most about the waterfall was the aqueduct. And the little village we started from to get to the waterfall, where Mom went into the abandoned house to pick plums (guilty 😆). I pretty much liked everything; there’s nothing I didn’t like.” 😄

Isn’t it true that we’ve made you search on Maps to find where Përmet is? Isn’t it true that you want to come here on your next vacation in Albania? I’m not surprised; we want to come back here too. Whether you’re passionate about outdoor activities, history, or simply want to relax in a spectacular natural setting, Përmet is a place where you’ll find everything you can imagine for an unforgettable experience. It’s no wonder their slogan is “Apart from the beach, we have it all!” 😄

If you enjoyed reading our article, you can show your support by sharing it with others. If you like what we do, consider subscribing to our newsletter and following us on Facebook and Instagram to stay updated on our latest content.

Happy exploring!